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 Tema posta: Vodic za tjuniranje - C20LET
PostPoslato: 31 Okt 2011 13:07 
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Pridružio se: 12 Jan 2010 23:44
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Opel: Calibra C20LET '96
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Pre nego sto nasmejem frenkija i drustvo sa nazivom teme, da kazem da je tekst preuzet sa clubcalibra.com sajta.
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Introduction

The c20let engine although often overlooked by many people is actually a very capable performer even in fairly standard tune, developed alongside cosworth initially as the C20XE (normally aspirated motor) the C20LET turbo variant benefits from a good modern design of cylinder head and strong internal components and these days there is a vast array of tuning parts available and an incresing number of serious tuners who are prepared to work with them. The LET is very easy to live with as a day to day engine, there is very little turbo lag and it will return 30mpg or more if driven steady.
It was originally found in the calibra turbo and cavalier turbo and was in production from 1992-1998 but is now found in a very wide variety of cars due to its popularity for engine transplants, so now you will find LET motors in various kit cars, as well as shoehorned into just about every car in the vauxhall range from the 80s and 90s and even in other makes of cars.
As with any engine, when it comes to tuning the key thing is to set yourself a clear target and find a reputable company to help you achieve it. If you set out for 250bhp, then change your mind to 300bhp, then 350bhp then 400bhp rather than just going straight for 400bhp then you will keep having to replace parts (especially the chipset) that you have already replaced, and this can lead to costs spiralling out of control, spending 1000 pounds on a replacement turbo is not something you want to do many times, so its no good buying a 350bhp capable turbo if you then decide 6 months later you want a 400bhp one and have to replace it again.



Stage 0 - (204bhp)
The first thing to do with the c20let like any other engine is of course to make sure that its well serviced, specifically any weakness in the ignition system in particular will greatly limit the tuning potential of the engine, so make sure the plugs/leads/rotor arm/distributor cap are all in perfect working order before you even consider upping the boost etc.
Cost: 200-500


Stage 1 (250bhp)
The simplest place to look for more power is to increase the boost level, the standard engine is limited on boost by the software within the ecu, so in order to run more boost you will first need to change the chips within the ecu to allow more boost to be produced.
There is a wide choice of chips available to do this, but unless you also upgrade the intercooler you will be limited on power to around 250bhp
Cost: 200-300


Stage 2 (280bhp)
With an uprated intercooler (and boost pipes) and also a raised boost level you should be able to squueze around 280bhp out of a completely standard engine with no other modifications needed other than an increase in fuel pressure and adjusting the actuator, at this level the standard components are all well within their capabilities and this is a very popular level of tune to take these engines to as its power to match most cars on the road without spending out a lot of money.
Cost: 600-1000


Stage 3 (300-350bhp)
Getting past 300bhp to any significant extent is going to require a change of turbo, the standard K16 turbo is simply not capable of flowing enough air for much more, along with a change of exhaust as the standard one is too restrictive at this level.
When it comes to upgrading the turbo there are two very different paths you can go down, the first is to go for a modified K16 turbo or a hybrid (such as a K16/K26 hybrid), fitted to the original exhaust manifold, the second option is to go for a custom manifold and replace the turbo with another type of turbo altogether, with the most popular choice being the Garrett T or GT series of turbos.
For the upper end of this power range, you will also need to uprate your fuel pump, and the inlet manifold tophat, the standard injectors too are absolutely on their knees and its common practice to replace these with 440cc or larger items.
Ultimately this is the stage to which you are you are limited by the engine internals, so this is the furthest you can realistically tune the engine without having to actually remove it from the car and start modifying it internally
Cost : 2000-4000


Stage 4 (400bhp)
At this stage it becomes necessary to start making major mechanical changes to the engine itself, the standard conrods simply wont survive for long at this level and so have to be replaced, this is not a trivial task and will involve a total engine stripdown and rebuild to incorporate the new conrods, at which point most people will opt to replace the pistons too in order to drop the compression ratio to allow for far more boost to be utilised so costs really start to climb here typically.
Also needing to be changed is the standard inlet manifold which will not flow evenly to each cylinder anymore at this level and likewise the exhaust manifold will need to be replaced for an equal length tubular item, along with a much larger turbo.
The standard injectors too will have to be replaced at this level, typically with aftermarket 550cc items.
The original equipment motronic management however copes surprisingly well with big changes to the engine providing the software is updated accordingly, and even the standard air mass meter has been proven to cope accurately upto 400bhp.
Cost: 5000 - 10000


Stage 5 (450bhp+)
A change of management to an aftermarket ECU will remove the restriction of the air mass meter and open up the nearly limitless potential of the C20LET, the cylinder head will also need modifying at this level to open up the ports to allow more airflow, the standard cams are also too mild for this sort of power and will need replacing too, along with all the valve train components, as the standard valvesprings.
The sky truely is the limit though and examples have been dyno'd at 700bhp and above, but the number of standard components remaining at that level is almost none!
Its impossible to really give any firm guidelines of what to do at this level as different tuners will all have their preferred approach, but suffice to say that getting this sort of power reliabley from your LET engine is going to mean replacing almost everything, so expect to be paying 10K+ at this point!
Cost 10000-20000




Further information
To find out more about tuning the LET, its worth visiting one of the many vauxhall forums that have now sprung up such as:
www.vauxsport.com
www.migweb.co.uk

Companies
V-Tuning
Jamsport
Regal Automotive
Courtenay Sport
Motorsport Developments

And of course
Total Vauxhall magazine is well worth a read





BOXOUT 1

Dump valves
The standard recirculating valve on the c20LET works very well and replacing it with an atmospheric blow off valve is a bad idea as it will lead to potential running problems as the air that it releases is air that has already passed through the air mass meter, so the ECU will think its gone into the engine so if using the original motronic and a dumpvalve upgrade is required its essential to use a recirculating valve not one that dumps to atmosphere.


BOXOUT 2

Approximate component power potential.
Crank = 500bhp+
Pistons = 500bhp+
Rods = 350bhp
Block = 500bhp+
Exhaust manifold = 350bhp
Inlet manifold = 400bhp
Inlet tophat = 300bhp
Intake pipework = 300bhp
Injectors= 300bhp
Turbo = 300bhp
Intercooler = 250bhp
Fuel pump = 300bhp
Air mass meter = 400bhp
Cylinder head = 400bhp


Zanimljiv detalj iz texta, nisam jedini koji kaze da blow-off ventile stavljaju ljudi zbog sexualne uzbudjenosti.... valjda krene suza niz butinu kad auto zvuci kao GSP autobus ili SCANIA shleper :)

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 Tema posta: Re: Vodic za tjuniranje - C20LET
PostPoslato: 31 Okt 2011 13:09 
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Opel Team Member

Pridružio se: 12 Jan 2010 23:44
Postovi: 4419
Lokacija: Beograd
Ime: Nemanja
Opel: Calibra C20LET '96
Garaza: pogledaj
E da.. cene istaknute ispod opisa faza su u funtama.

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